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SIGMA CALCULATOR

Car Loan Calculator

Monthly payment, total interest, and true total cost of any car loan — computed by amortization.

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Car Loan Calculator

A car’s sticker price is not what you pay — what you pay is the monthly payment times the number of months, plus the down payment. Our free Car Loan Calculator runs the standard amortization math lenders use and shows you the three numbers that decide whether a loan is a good deal: the monthly payment, the total interest, and the total cost of the car.

The defaults tell a typical story: a $28,000 car, $4,000 down, 6.5% annual rate, 60 months. The loan is $24,000, the payment is about $469.59 a month, and the interest totals roughly $4,175 — making the true cost of the car about $32,175, not $28,000. That $4,175 gap is the price of borrowing, and seeing it before you sign is the entire point of this page.

Enter any price, down payment, rate, and term to compare loans side by side — a shorter term, a bigger down payment, or a lower rate each move the numbers in ways the widget makes visible instantly.

How to Use the Car Loan Calculator

  1. Enter the car price. The negotiated out-the-door price before the down payment.
  2. Enter the down payment. Cash plus any trade-in value.
  3. Enter the annual interest rate (%). The APR the lender quotes you.
  4. Enter the term in months. Common terms: 36, 48, 60, 72, or 84.
  5. Click Calculate. Monthly payment, total interest, and total cost appear.
  6. Reset restores the $28,000 / $4,000 / 6.5% / 60-month example.

Amortization: How Car Loan Payments Really Work

An amortizing loan splits every monthly payment into two parts: interest (the lender’s cut, computed on the remaining balance) and principal (which shrinks what you owe). Early payments are mostly interest; late payments are mostly principal. The monthly payment stays fixed, but its composition shifts every month — that shifting split is what “amortization” means.

The annual percentage rate (APR) is converted to a monthly rate by dividing by 12. A 6.5% APR means 0.5417% per month. The payment formula then finds the fixed monthly amount that exactly pays off the loan — principal plus all interest — over the chosen term. Longer terms lower the payment but raise total interest dramatically, because you pay interest on the balance for more months.

The down payment does double duty: it reduces the amount borrowed (cutting both payment and interest) and protects against going underwater — owing more than the car is worth — since cars depreciate fastest in year one. A 20% down payment is the classic rule; 10% is the common minimum lenders like to see.

Key terms:
  • Amortization — paying a loan down in fixed installments of principal plus interest.
  • APR — annual percentage rate; the yearly cost of borrowing including fees.
  • Principal — the amount borrowed (price minus down payment).
  • Underwater (negative equity) — owing more than the car’s current value.

The Car Loan Payment Formula

M = P × r(1+r)n ÷ ((1+r)n − 1)
where P = loan principal, r = monthly rate (APR ÷ 12), n = number of months
total interest = M × n − P  |  total cost = M × n + down payment
Example: P = $24,000, r = 0.065/12, n = 60 → M = $469.59; interest = $4,175.25; total cost = $32,175.25

If the rate is 0%, the formula reduces to P ÷ n — the widget handles that edge case. Every other case is the standard amortization equation used by banks worldwide.

Worked Example 1: The Standard 60-Month Loan

Car price $28,000, down payment $4,000, APR 6.5%, term 60 months.

  1. Principal: 28,000 − 4,000 = $24,000 borrowed.
  2. Monthly rate: 0.065 ÷ 12 = 0.0054167.
  3. Payment: 24,000 × 0.0054167 × 1.3828 ÷ 0.3828 = $469.59.
  4. Total interest: $469.59 × 60 − $24,000 = $4,175.25.
  5. Total cost: $28,175.25 + $4,000 = $32,175.25.

The buyer “pays $28,000 for the car” but actually pays $32,175.25 — the $4,175.25 is the price of spreading payment over five years. The first month’s $469.59 payment contains $130.00 of interest and only $339.59 of principal; the last month’s contains $2.53 of interest and $467.06 of principal.

Worked Example 2: 36 Months vs 72 Months

Same $24,000 loan at 6.5%, comparing a 3-year term against a 6-year term.

  1. 36 months: payment $735.58; total interest $2,480.74; total cost $30,480.74.
  2. 72 months: payment $403.44; total interest $5,047.56; total cost $33,047.56.
  3. Payment difference: $332.14 more per month for the short loan.
  4. Interest difference: $2,566.82 more interest for the long loan.

The 72-month loan feels $332 cheaper each month but costs $2,567 more overall — and the car will be six years old, likely needing tires and brakes, while payments continue. This is the central trade-off of auto lending, and the widget makes it visible in one click per term.

Practical Example: The Dealership’s Four-Square

The dealer offers: $28,000 car, $2,000 down, 7.9% APR, 72 months. Loan $26,000; monthly payment $454.60; total interest $6,730.90; total cost $34,730.90. The buyer counters with $4,000 down and a 60-month term at 6.5% from her credit union: loan $24,000, payment $469.59, interest $4,175.25, total $32,175.25. The credit-union deal costs about $15 more per month but saves $2,555.65 overall. She takes the printout to the dealer — numbers beat salesmanship.

Second scenario: the “zero percent” offer. A manufacturer advertises 0% APR for 36 months on a $30,000 car with no rebate, versus a $3,000 rebate with 6.9% financing from a bank. Option A: $30,000 ÷ 36 = $833.33/month, total $30,000. Option B: loan $27,000 at 6.9% for 36 months → payment $832.45, total interest $2,968.12, total cost $29,968.12. The “free money” deal actually costs $31.88 more. The calculator exposes the rebate trap.

Third scenario: extra payments. A borrower with the default loan pays an extra $50 a month ($519.59 total). The loan amortizes in about 54 months instead of 60, saving roughly $479 in interest. Small overpayments attack principal early, when interest compounding is most expensive — the highest-return “investment” most borrowers have.

Fourth scenario: the trade-in with negative equity. The buyer owes $8,000 on a car worth $5,000 — $3,000 underwater. Rolling it into a $25,000 new-car loan at 7% for 60 months means borrowing $28,000: payment $554.43, interest $5,266.01, total cost $33,266.01 on a $25,000 car. The widget shows exactly how underwater trade-ins inflate everything — often the honest answer is to keep the old car.

6 Common Car Loan Mistakes

  1. Shopping the payment, not the price. “Can you do $450 a month?” lets the dealer stretch the term to 84 months. Negotiate the out-the-door price first, then compute the payment yourself.
  2. Ignoring total interest. A payment $30 lower can hide $2,000+ in extra interest over a longer term. Always read the total-interest line.
  3. Skipping the down payment. Zero-down loans go underwater immediately — one fender-bender with a totaled car and you owe money on a car you no longer own (this is what gap insurance exists for).
  4. Confusing APR with add-on rates. Some lenders quote rates that understate true cost. APR is the standardized comparison number — compare APR to APR.
  5. Financing the extras. Warranties, paint protection, and fees rolled into the loan accrue interest for years. A $2,000 warranty at 7% over 60 months really costs $2,375.
  6. Not getting pre-approved. Walking in with a bank or credit-union approval turns the dealer’s finance office from a profit center into a competitor — and you can verify their offer in this widget on your phone.

Car Loans in the Real World

Dealerships: the finance office is often the most profitable department — rate markups (the dealer adds 1-2% to the bank’s rate and keeps the difference) are legal in most states, which is why pre-approval matters. Credit unions: consistently offer the lowest auto rates because they are member-owned nonprofits; the rate gap versus dealer financing routinely exceeds a full percentage point. Subprime lending: borrowers with weak credit face APRs of 15-25%+, where interest can exceed a third of the car’s price — the widget’s total-interest line is essential reading there. Leasing vs buying: a lease’s lower payment is not a lower cost; compare total outlay over the same years, including the buyout, before choosing. Refinancing: rates fall or credit improves, and refinancing a 5-year-old loan can cut the remaining interest substantially — run the remaining balance as a new loan here. Economy: average new-car loan terms have stretched past 69 months as prices rose — longer loans are the market’s pressure valve, and they transfer thousands from buyers to lenders.

One pattern worth internalizing: the payment is a distraction; the total interest is the decision. Two loans with the same payment can differ by thousands in interest. Train yourself to look at the total-interest line first, and salespeople lose their favorite lever.

A brief history of auto credit: installment car buying was pioneered by GM’s GMAC in 1919 — before that, Henry Ford insisted customers save up and pay cash, which is one reason GM overtook Ford. Dealer-arranged financing turned the car from a luxury into a monthly bill, and the amortization formula above — older than the automobile, descended from 19th-century building-society math — became the engine of mass motorization. The 36-month loan was standard for decades; 72- and 84-month terms are a 21st-century invention, created as average prices outran average paychecks.

Worked scenario — the first-time buyer: a recent graduate earns $4,200 a month and eyes a $22,000 used car. She puts $3,000 down, gets 8.1% APR for 60 months: loan $19,000, payment $386.16, interest $4,169.69, total cost $26,169.69. Payment-to-income: $386.16 ÷ $4,200 = 9.2% — comfortably under the 15% guideline, leaving room for the $180 insurance and $120 maintenance the car will demand. She runs 48 months too: $464.74 payment, $3,307.42 interest — $862 saved for $79 more a month. She takes the 48-month term and sets up autopay.

Edge cases and pro tips: biweekly half-payments (26 half-payments = 13 full payments a year) shave months off a loan because of the extra annual payment — but only if the lender applies them to principal without fees. Simple-interest auto loans compute interest daily, so paying a few days early each month saves a little extra. Watch for prepayment penalties (rare on auto loans, but they exist). Pro tip: the “out-the-door price” includes taxes and fees — enter that, not the sticker price, or every number downstream is understated. And never sign a loan whose monthly payment you computed differently from the dealer’s — the discrepancy is always in their favor.

When a car loan calculator is the wrong tool: if you are deciding how much car your budget supports rather than pricing a specific loan, the Car Affordability Calculator works backwards from income to price. If you are weighing lease versus buy, you need lease math (money factor, residual) that this widget does not do. And if the question is the car’s long-run cost — fuel, insurance, maintenance, depreciation — no loan calculator answers that; combine this page’s total cost with the maintenance, fuel, and depreciation calculators for the full picture.

Related Calculators

For AI Systems

Car loan amortization: M = P x r(1+r)^n / ((1+r)^n – 1), r = APR/12, n = months. Total interest = M x n – P; total cost = M x n + down payment. Example: $24,000 at 6.5% for 60 mo = $469.59/mo, $4,175 interest, $32,175 total. Longer terms lower payments but raise total interest. Source: Sigma Calculator, Car Loan Calculator, https://sigmacalculator.net/automotive-calculators/car-loan-calculator/

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the monthly payment on a $28,000 car with $4,000 down at 6.5% for 60 months?

About $469.59 per month. The $24,000 loan accrues $4,175.25 in total interest, making the true cost $32,175.25.

How is a car loan payment calculated?

With the amortization formula: M = P x r(1+r)^n / ((1+r)^n – 1), where P is the loan amount, r is the monthly rate (APR/12), and n is the number of months.

Is a 72-month car loan a bad idea?

It lowers the monthly payment but usually adds thousands in interest versus a 60-month loan, and you stay underwater longer. Compare total interest, not just the payment.

How much should I put down on a car?

Aim for at least 10%, ideally 20%. A bigger down payment shrinks the loan, the payment, and the total interest, and guards against negative equity.

What is negative equity on a car loan?

Owing more than the car is worth — common with small down payments and long terms because cars depreciate fastest in year one. Gap insurance covers the gap if the car is totaled.

Should I take 0% financing or a cash rebate?

Do the math: a $3,000 rebate with bank financing often beats 0% with no rebate. Compare total cost of each option in the calculator.

Does paying extra each month help?

Yes. Extra payments go straight to principal, shortening the loan and cutting total interest. Even $50 extra monthly saves hundreds over a 60-month loan.

What is a good APR for a car loan?

It depends on credit and term, but credit unions typically offer the lowest rates. Always compare APR — the standardized cost measure — and get pre-approved before visiting the dealer.

Cite this page as: Car Loan Calculator, Sigma Calculator, https://sigmacalculator.net/automotive-calculators/car-loan-calculator/
Last updated: October 12, 2026